| India travel tips anyone? 07:31 - Jul 27 with 2844 views | noggin |
As a retirement gift to myself, I've booked a 5 month trip to India. I fly into Kochi on 3rd November and have so far booked a few days in Varkala and a couple of days in Munroe Island, just to ease me in.. The only other plan is a couple of days in Fort Kochi.
So TWTD travelers, I'm looking for tips. I want to avoid the big cities and crowded tourist hotspots because I want to relax as much as possible.
So if anyone has tips for, off the beaten track, places, or other travel tips, they'll be gratefully received.
Uppa Towen. |  |
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| India travel tips anyone? on 16:00 - Jul 27 with 783 views | Zx1988 |
| India travel tips anyone? on 15:50 - Jul 27 by bluester |
Agree re Taj Mahal, I went in fairly skeptical having heard various stories from friends but was blown away by it. The view from the gardens behind it is also well worth the trip.
Delhi actually has some stunning old forts and palaces. Humayun's Tomb, Qutub Minar and Purana Quila... |
A world away from OP's plans, but the wife and I did a 10-day guided tour of the Golden Triangle in October last year and it was amazing.
The Taj Mahal was something else entirely - I had expected for it to be visible from quite a distance around, so the fact that it only really becomes visible when you turn a corner in the complex itself is an amazing experience.
I'd also highly recommend the Jantar Mantar in Jaipur, as has been recommended previously. The extreme astrological precision in something of that age is an absolute wonder to behold.
We did the tiger safari in Ranthambore and thoroughly enjoyed it. Yes, it's definitely a massive wildlife reserve rather than the open plains you might get elsewhere, but we got to see tigers and had a fantastic time nonetheless. If it's your sort of thing, you'll really enjoy it. Especially as, staying in 5* international hotels in Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur, the 3* safari lodge in Ranthambore was by far the best and most genuine stay of the entire trip. |  |
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| India travel tips anyone? on 16:19 - Jul 27 with 747 views | MJallday |
I can only talk about my limited experiences through work, but i can summarise it as "the most beautiful place on earth - but simultaneously, the worst place on earth"
The opulance of the hotels is stunning. The smells of the flowers, the service you get, the fact that everything is marble and just "stunningly beautiful" - the kindness of the people, even in the street, was just something i will never forget. The rich, truely operate in style.
indian street food is amazing. and you will get the s**ts. but its ok. take immodium. you can eat a rice meal which will fill you for days, for less than £1
however, outside of the hotels its a different matter
the sight of a naked child, crawling around on the floor starving - made me sick to my stomach. people with limbs and eyes missing, clawing at my car, the fact i had to have an armed guard , the fact that the locals had never seen a blonde lady (my colleague) before and could only stare in wonder and tried to grab her... was freaky (more so for her than me) thankfully i was able to protect her and with the aid of my guard, we got out of there - but they came in numbers.
When someone came up to me in the street in one of the major cities (chennai) and "bowed" (i went all james bond and simply said good morning) - was just bewildereing. when i asked my very armed guard why - it was "the cast system, this lady was taught to" honour their betters." i couldnt get my head around that. still cant 7 years later. im not better than anyone, but thats how they work.
for what i did, i had to have an armed guard, so i felt safe. i dont think id have attempted some of the thigns i did without one (walks along the streets)
would i go again, absolutely. but id avoid anywhere thats going to compromise my safety, which given tamil nadu - is basically everywhere. id stay in the hotels.
edit - tuk tuks are lethal but so much fun.. almost fell out of it 3 times :D
[Post edited 27 Jul 16:22]
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| India travel tips anyone? on 16:38 - Jul 27 with 715 views | RayleighBlue |
| India travel tips anyone? on 16:19 - Jul 27 by MJallday |
I can only talk about my limited experiences through work, but i can summarise it as "the most beautiful place on earth - but simultaneously, the worst place on earth"
The opulance of the hotels is stunning. The smells of the flowers, the service you get, the fact that everything is marble and just "stunningly beautiful" - the kindness of the people, even in the street, was just something i will never forget. The rich, truely operate in style.
indian street food is amazing. and you will get the s**ts. but its ok. take immodium. you can eat a rice meal which will fill you for days, for less than £1
however, outside of the hotels its a different matter
the sight of a naked child, crawling around on the floor starving - made me sick to my stomach. people with limbs and eyes missing, clawing at my car, the fact i had to have an armed guard , the fact that the locals had never seen a blonde lady (my colleague) before and could only stare in wonder and tried to grab her... was freaky (more so for her than me) thankfully i was able to protect her and with the aid of my guard, we got out of there - but they came in numbers.
When someone came up to me in the street in one of the major cities (chennai) and "bowed" (i went all james bond and simply said good morning) - was just bewildereing. when i asked my very armed guard why - it was "the cast system, this lady was taught to" honour their betters." i couldnt get my head around that. still cant 7 years later. im not better than anyone, but thats how they work.
for what i did, i had to have an armed guard, so i felt safe. i dont think id have attempted some of the thigns i did without one (walks along the streets)
would i go again, absolutely. but id avoid anywhere thats going to compromise my safety, which given tamil nadu - is basically everywhere. id stay in the hotels.
edit - tuk tuks are lethal but so much fun.. almost fell out of it 3 times :D
[Post edited 27 Jul 16:22]
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Completely forgot about that aspect of it. Being at India gate in Delhi and having Indians queueing to have selfies with me. At first I assumed it was a scam until my guide told me no it was simply to show their friends back home that they had met a white male who would have a photo with them.
Agree with some of the things you see. A man with no limbs pulling himself around on a board at Agra train station. I learned to keep my sunglasses on at all times even in the middle of the night because simply making eye contact can lead to a whole lot of attention you don't want.
Driving out of Delhi past the slums of people bathing, going to the toilet and simply burning all their rubbish right by the motorway. The sights and smells never leave you. I remember landing at Indira Ghandi and the pollution index saying it wasn't really safe to be outside. Really is another world. | | | |
| India travel tips anyone? on 18:58 - Jul 27 with 647 views | shady |
For all my great love of India, …but…but…but if you take a step back and reflect, it can be quite shocking; the assault on all the senses, the noise, the smell, the dust. Makes one question one’s sanity. Just everyday walking I am perplexed at the ugliness and near collisions during my walks(there are usually no usable pavements) so have to dodge craters, builders rubble, and puddles, cows with decent sized horns, monkeys that just know that my bag has food in, plus dogs ready to start a fight from a sleeping start, and the fires of burning garbage.
Maybe just too acclimatized and accepting of these minor inconveniences, to the ugliness and that’s before the near collisions with all manner of traffic that can arrive from any direction. Just know that I’ll get squished but another day of survival and the treasure of fresh mangoes, some good looking veggies to cook. Sitting at a local street stall sipping excellent local coffee for 16 pence in the perennial sunshine. Yes, there’s good and bad but mainly very good and experiences by the score.
I know it’s a bubble world and there are some among us in incredible bubbles of gated communities and private security, shopping malls and coffee shops that ordinary people can’t afford.
However, there's this absurd growing affluence producing entitlement ...the nouveau rich.
Another silly problem are aural assaults, as all phone conversations are on speaker phone and if you happen to be on a sleeper train, do bring industrial strength ear plugs.
Incidentally no vehicle is able to move until the driver has one hand on his mobile and the other on the horn.
There is a selfie culture and reels are seen as self-expression, especially ridiculously daring ones. Photos of western ladies on their bike gets translated as this is my (fantasy) girlfiend.
In Pondicherry there is even a cult of photographing wall murals.
I have lived decades in Tamil Nadu and it’s one of the safest states and have never feared the wonderful locals. Chennai, the capital is a large city and very safe and stable. South Indian food is great and pure vegetarian is everywhere.
I was last in Orchha 2 decades ago here’s a true story: was dining at the Palace restaurant when observed my waiter looked ill. I told him to take some time off but they don’t have that luxury. He informed me that it was malaria and the other staff were more ill than him. However, yes, Orchha is a very nice place to stay and maybe malaria is no longer an issue there.
Oh! Very subjective, many places do have a semblance of pavements (jam packed with ‘2-wheeler’ parking), underground sewers, less quadrupeds and a more sunny disposition. Depends which side of bed one awakes on; as so easy to see only problems and ugliness. But in truth not many towns/cities/villages are easy for foreigners to feel at home in, hence the variety of stories and the magnificence of it all. |  | | |
| India travel tips anyone? on 19:09 - Jul 27 with 634 views | Radlett_blue |
| India travel tips anyone? on 18:58 - Jul 27 by shady |
For all my great love of India, …but…but…but if you take a step back and reflect, it can be quite shocking; the assault on all the senses, the noise, the smell, the dust. Makes one question one’s sanity. Just everyday walking I am perplexed at the ugliness and near collisions during my walks(there are usually no usable pavements) so have to dodge craters, builders rubble, and puddles, cows with decent sized horns, monkeys that just know that my bag has food in, plus dogs ready to start a fight from a sleeping start, and the fires of burning garbage.
Maybe just too acclimatized and accepting of these minor inconveniences, to the ugliness and that’s before the near collisions with all manner of traffic that can arrive from any direction. Just know that I’ll get squished but another day of survival and the treasure of fresh mangoes, some good looking veggies to cook. Sitting at a local street stall sipping excellent local coffee for 16 pence in the perennial sunshine. Yes, there’s good and bad but mainly very good and experiences by the score.
I know it’s a bubble world and there are some among us in incredible bubbles of gated communities and private security, shopping malls and coffee shops that ordinary people can’t afford.
However, there's this absurd growing affluence producing entitlement ...the nouveau rich.
Another silly problem are aural assaults, as all phone conversations are on speaker phone and if you happen to be on a sleeper train, do bring industrial strength ear plugs.
Incidentally no vehicle is able to move until the driver has one hand on his mobile and the other on the horn.
There is a selfie culture and reels are seen as self-expression, especially ridiculously daring ones. Photos of western ladies on their bike gets translated as this is my (fantasy) girlfiend.
In Pondicherry there is even a cult of photographing wall murals.
I have lived decades in Tamil Nadu and it’s one of the safest states and have never feared the wonderful locals. Chennai, the capital is a large city and very safe and stable. South Indian food is great and pure vegetarian is everywhere.
I was last in Orchha 2 decades ago here’s a true story: was dining at the Palace restaurant when observed my waiter looked ill. I told him to take some time off but they don’t have that luxury. He informed me that it was malaria and the other staff were more ill than him. However, yes, Orchha is a very nice place to stay and maybe malaria is no longer an issue there.
Oh! Very subjective, many places do have a semblance of pavements (jam packed with ‘2-wheeler’ parking), underground sewers, less quadrupeds and a more sunny disposition. Depends which side of bed one awakes on; as so easy to see only problems and ugliness. But in truth not many towns/cities/villages are easy for foreigners to feel at home in, hence the variety of stories and the magnificence of it all. |
We were in Mumbai & it was a local public holiday so many out-of-towners were in. By the time we were at the Gateway of India, it was pretty crowded & Mrs Radlett, who is blonde, became a tourist attraction, being surrounded by Indians who wanted a selfie with her. They were all very pleasant, but I was glad we had a local guide with us & we dived into the Taj Mahal Palace hotel for some air conditioning and some peace. |  |
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| India travel tips anyone? on 19:10 - Jul 27 with 633 views | tivo |
| India travel tips anyone? on 18:58 - Jul 27 by shady |
For all my great love of India, …but…but…but if you take a step back and reflect, it can be quite shocking; the assault on all the senses, the noise, the smell, the dust. Makes one question one’s sanity. Just everyday walking I am perplexed at the ugliness and near collisions during my walks(there are usually no usable pavements) so have to dodge craters, builders rubble, and puddles, cows with decent sized horns, monkeys that just know that my bag has food in, plus dogs ready to start a fight from a sleeping start, and the fires of burning garbage.
Maybe just too acclimatized and accepting of these minor inconveniences, to the ugliness and that’s before the near collisions with all manner of traffic that can arrive from any direction. Just know that I’ll get squished but another day of survival and the treasure of fresh mangoes, some good looking veggies to cook. Sitting at a local street stall sipping excellent local coffee for 16 pence in the perennial sunshine. Yes, there’s good and bad but mainly very good and experiences by the score.
I know it’s a bubble world and there are some among us in incredible bubbles of gated communities and private security, shopping malls and coffee shops that ordinary people can’t afford.
However, there's this absurd growing affluence producing entitlement ...the nouveau rich.
Another silly problem are aural assaults, as all phone conversations are on speaker phone and if you happen to be on a sleeper train, do bring industrial strength ear plugs.
Incidentally no vehicle is able to move until the driver has one hand on his mobile and the other on the horn.
There is a selfie culture and reels are seen as self-expression, especially ridiculously daring ones. Photos of western ladies on their bike gets translated as this is my (fantasy) girlfiend.
In Pondicherry there is even a cult of photographing wall murals.
I have lived decades in Tamil Nadu and it’s one of the safest states and have never feared the wonderful locals. Chennai, the capital is a large city and very safe and stable. South Indian food is great and pure vegetarian is everywhere.
I was last in Orchha 2 decades ago here’s a true story: was dining at the Palace restaurant when observed my waiter looked ill. I told him to take some time off but they don’t have that luxury. He informed me that it was malaria and the other staff were more ill than him. However, yes, Orchha is a very nice place to stay and maybe malaria is no longer an issue there.
Oh! Very subjective, many places do have a semblance of pavements (jam packed with ‘2-wheeler’ parking), underground sewers, less quadrupeds and a more sunny disposition. Depends which side of bed one awakes on; as so easy to see only problems and ugliness. But in truth not many towns/cities/villages are easy for foreigners to feel at home in, hence the variety of stories and the magnificence of it all. |
That's a load of text for the positives to be fresh mangoes, coffee and good looking veggies.
As someone else who's lived in the country, stop kidding yourself and leave. You only live once. | | | |
| India travel tips anyone? on 19:17 - Jul 27 with 626 views | carlo88 |
Some wonderful and fascinating answers and tales on this thread. Quite immersing. |  | | |
| India travel tips anyone? on 19:22 - Jul 27 with 620 views | BornDeleuze |
If you have 5 months I’d recommend a trip up to Nepal. Khatmandu is lovely and a little trek around Annapurna is also a life affirming experience. |  | | |
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| India travel tips anyone? on 10:01 - Jul 28 with 537 views | KrakenBlue |
| India travel tips anyone? on 16:19 - Jul 27 by MJallday |
I can only talk about my limited experiences through work, but i can summarise it as "the most beautiful place on earth - but simultaneously, the worst place on earth"
The opulance of the hotels is stunning. The smells of the flowers, the service you get, the fact that everything is marble and just "stunningly beautiful" - the kindness of the people, even in the street, was just something i will never forget. The rich, truely operate in style.
indian street food is amazing. and you will get the s**ts. but its ok. take immodium. you can eat a rice meal which will fill you for days, for less than £1
however, outside of the hotels its a different matter
the sight of a naked child, crawling around on the floor starving - made me sick to my stomach. people with limbs and eyes missing, clawing at my car, the fact i had to have an armed guard , the fact that the locals had never seen a blonde lady (my colleague) before and could only stare in wonder and tried to grab her... was freaky (more so for her than me) thankfully i was able to protect her and with the aid of my guard, we got out of there - but they came in numbers.
When someone came up to me in the street in one of the major cities (chennai) and "bowed" (i went all james bond and simply said good morning) - was just bewildereing. when i asked my very armed guard why - it was "the cast system, this lady was taught to" honour their betters." i couldnt get my head around that. still cant 7 years later. im not better than anyone, but thats how they work.
for what i did, i had to have an armed guard, so i felt safe. i dont think id have attempted some of the thigns i did without one (walks along the streets)
would i go again, absolutely. but id avoid anywhere thats going to compromise my safety, which given tamil nadu - is basically everywhere. id stay in the hotels.
edit - tuk tuks are lethal but so much fun.. almost fell out of it 3 times :D
[Post edited 27 Jul 16:22]
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When & where did you go? I've always heard Tamil Nadu was one of the safer states to visit. | | | |
| India travel tips anyone? on 12:22 - Jul 28 with 493 views | MJallday |
| India travel tips anyone? on 10:01 - Jul 28 by KrakenBlue |
When & where did you go? I've always heard Tamil Nadu was one of the safer states to visit. |
Chennai in the city was ok... just people... everywhere. it was the suburbs that i found most "dangerous" - people with missing limbs, starving kids, people basically wanting my money because i was white and looked "affluent" - but the city itself as ok.
its also fair to say ive never seen (or probably never will see again) some of the sights. in particualr
1) a man waving a banana at a monkey, trying to coax it down off a roof - and being very angry when it wasnt playing along - so he just got a gun out and started shooting. fortunately for all concerned (including the hotel guests ) - he missed.
2) a man walking out into a 6 lane highway of traffic full of traffic, and just start digging it up wih a pickaxe - in front of our car
3) more exposed electrical wires than ive ever seen, with kids literally hanging off them like tarzan
its things like that that stick with you | |
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| India travel tips anyone? on 13:57 - Jul 28 with 453 views | thecheek |
Did a similar trip in Kerala a few years ago.
We did the backwaters which are en route from Kochi to Varkala. Most tourists seem to stay on houseboats in the backwaters but I'd suggest checking out Philipkutty's Farm as a place to stay instead. Aside from the setting the owner does the most amazing food (it was featured in a Rick Stein BBC programme). |  | | |
| India travel tips anyone? on 14:52 - Jul 28 with 425 views | Radlett_blue |
| India travel tips anyone? on 13:57 - Jul 28 by thecheek |
Did a similar trip in Kerala a few years ago.
We did the backwaters which are en route from Kochi to Varkala. Most tourists seem to stay on houseboats in the backwaters but I'd suggest checking out Philipkutty's Farm as a place to stay instead. Aside from the setting the owner does the most amazing food (it was featured in a Rick Stein BBC programme). |
the backwaters make for an amazingly relaxing day, a contrast from the hustle & bustle of the traffic & people of India. Yes, we had a nice if fairly basic curry while on a houseboat. | |
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| India travel tips anyone? on 16:03 - Jul 28 with 396 views | ZapatasMoustache |
I went around the north-centre 25 years ago, and Kerala 18 years ago, so my opinions are not very current, however:
Kerala was amazing, loved the towns, the lakes (did a slightly touristy houseboat but it was very cool) and the tea plantations (stunning scenery).
Agra definitely worth the hassle
Sarnath was slightly spoiled by schoolboys trying to honk my sister
Loved Jaipur and Pushkar (wish I'd gone to Jodhpur/Jaisalmer but didn't have time)
Delhi was pretty overwhelming but there's loads of interesting stuff there
I didn't enjoy Varanasi myself, I'm not a spiritual person and I just found it pretty grim |  | | |
| India travel tips anyone? on 17:55 - Jul 28 with 342 views | noggin |
| India travel tips anyone? on 16:03 - Jul 28 by ZapatasMoustache |
I went around the north-centre 25 years ago, and Kerala 18 years ago, so my opinions are not very current, however:
Kerala was amazing, loved the towns, the lakes (did a slightly touristy houseboat but it was very cool) and the tea plantations (stunning scenery).
Agra definitely worth the hassle
Sarnath was slightly spoiled by schoolboys trying to honk my sister
Loved Jaipur and Pushkar (wish I'd gone to Jodhpur/Jaisalmer but didn't have time)
Delhi was pretty overwhelming but there's loads of interesting stuff there
I didn't enjoy Varanasi myself, I'm not a spiritual person and I just found it pretty grim |
"Sarnath was slightly spoiled by schoolboys trying to honk my sister"
"Honk" your sister?  | |
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| India travel tips anyone? on 07:13 - Jul 29 with 255 views | ZapatasMoustache |
| India travel tips anyone? on 17:55 - Jul 28 by noggin |
"Sarnath was slightly spoiled by schoolboys trying to honk my sister"
"Honk" your sister? |
Yes… as in grope… this has happened to a lot of female friends travelling in India unfortunately | | | |
| India travel tips anyone? on 07:21 - Jul 29 with 246 views | noggin |
| India travel tips anyone? on 07:13 - Jul 29 by ZapatasMoustache |
Yes… as in grope… this has happened to a lot of female friends travelling in India unfortunately |
Yes that is very sad. I've read of solo women being harassed a lot. | |
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| India travel tips anyone? on 12:41 - Jul 29 with 180 views | Cafe_Newman |
Learn as much as you can about Indian cricket and film .
Your access to the delights of real India depend largely on how friendly you are and the people you meet. Always take the train where possible. This is a great way to meet people.
As you’re starting in Kerala get a Sanju Samson shirt, know about Sachin’s connection to the Kochi football team and gen up on Mollywood greats Mohanlal and Mammootty. |  |
| FREE PALASTINE FROM ZIONIST BOMBS. FREE LEBANON FROM ZIONIST BOMBS. FREE IRAN FROM ZIONIST BOMBS. |
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| India travel tips anyone? on 13:21 - Jul 29 with 143 views | Radlett_blue |
Oh, and if you are in Delhi, I would recommend visiting Gurdwara Bangla Sahib, the largest Sikh temple. It's interesting enough in itself, but the real deal was walking through the huge community kitchen, which feeds over 30,000 people, of all faiths, for free each day. A truly immersive experience. | |
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| India travel tips anyone? on 14:35 - Jul 29 with 114 views | brazil1982 |
I am quite envious of you! - We went on an organised tour last year - started in Delhi and drove (well, minibuses) to as far north as Hunder.
I would say, on your own, do not hesitate to hire a guide and/or driver especially further north - where we went was quite desolate, and there appeared to be no public buses and I wouldn't want to be on one of those roads. I usually source guides from Trip Advisor, however for this one we took https://www.lehladakhtourism.c
Some high altitude to deal with here. Highly recommended though.
Delhi is OK for a few days - very hot and crowded, but very interesting - we took a food tour of old Delhi and a guide / driver another day to the major sites in the city.
Warning: When the guides left us in Delhi we were surrounded by begging children, who were very persistent and assaulted my wife. We could not shake them off, only when we entered the metro.
I accidently had ice in a drink and knew about it almost instantly, and for the next 32 hours.
Taj Mahal incredible and a must visit.
We had 17 days in India and wanted to come home, but as soon as we returned, wanted to go back! It's an addictive place that you will both love and hate. Make sure you have downtime in some nice hotels in between destinations. |  | | |
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